Jersey Tomato Chowder

A versatile meal in a bowl, chowder has been reinterpreted by home cooks for 100 years or more and doesn't always mean fish. In fact, there's a rich tradition of authentic chowders prepared with seasonal farmland ingredients at their core. So, what makes a chowder a chowder and not simply a soup or stew? Salt pork or bacon, potatoes and cream are important ingredients, but they are not definitive components. The Food Lovers Companion, an authoritative guide for food professionals, defines chowder as "a thick hearty soup with chunks of food in a moderate amount of broth." What the ingredients are exactly seems to be unimportant. The history behind chowder is humble. It was created out of necessity, thriftily using everyday local ingredients to create a hearty nourishing one pot meal. My belief is that chowder is best defined by its chunky texture and the enterprising spirit of the preparation. So, enjoy the last of our local summer tomatoes with this simple and satisfying vegetable chowder.

Serves 6
6 ounces thick sliced bacon, coarsely chopped
1 large onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 tbs unsalted butter
3 1/2 lbs ripe tomatoes, cored and coarsely chopped, about 8 cups chopped (skins and all along with seeds and juices)
kosher or finely milled sea salt
1 cup chicken broth
small handful fresh thyme or rosemary sprigs from garden
1 1/2 cups whole milk
freshly ground black pepper to taste
more thyme or rosemary for garnish

Combine the bacon, onion and butter in a large soup pot and saute over medium high heat until the bacon begins to brown and become crisp, 8 to 10 minutes.
Stir in the tomatoes (juice and all) and scrape up the browned bits clinging to the bottom of the pot. Season with a generous teaspoon of salt and bring to a simmer over medium high heat.
Add the stock and herbs, and continue to simmer, partially covered until the soup is fragrant and slightly thickened, about 25 minutes. Stir occasionally.
Stir in the milk and warm over low heat for another 5 minutes or so. Season to taste with additional salt and pepper. Ladle into soup bowls and serve hot garnished with fresh herb sprigs.